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The Pennyweight

Glossary · 20 terms

The Glossary

The vocabulary a product page, a care card or a grading report will put in front of you, defined in plain English. If a term changes what you are actually buying, it is here.

Fine Jewelry

Pennyweight (dwt)
One twentieth of a troy ounce — 1.555 grams. The unit refiners weigh gold in.
Troy Ounce
31.1035 grams — the ounce precious metals are priced in, heavier than the kitchen ounce.
Karat vs Carat
Karat is gold purity in twenty-fourths. Carat is gemstone weight. Different units.
Points
One hundredth of a carat. A 25-point stone is 0.25 ct.
The 4 Cs
Carat, colour, clarity, cut — what a diamond grading report records.
Table
The large flat facet on top of a cut stone — the window you look through.
Girdle
The narrow band around a stone’s widest point, where a setting grips it.
Culet
The point or small facet at the bottom of a brilliant-cut stone.
Setting: Bezel, Prong & Pavé
The three common ways metal holds a stone — each with different durability.
Vermeil
Sterling silver plated with gold to a regulated minimum thickness.
Gold-Filled vs Gold-Plated
Gold-filled is a bonded layer by weight; plate is microns thick and rubs through.
Lab-Grown Diamond
A real diamond made in a reactor rather than mined — and disclosed as such.
Moissanite
Silicon carbide — a different material from diamond, with different optics.
Treated Stone
A stone altered after cutting — clarity-enhanced, irradiated or HPHT-processed.

Designer Clothing

Bias Cut
Fabric cut at 45° to the grain so it stretches and drapes diagonally.

Accessories & Shoes

Grosgrain
A ribbed woven ribbon used for hatbands, waistbands and bag trim.

Care & Sizing

Hallmark
A stamped mark recording metal fineness — compulsory in some countries, not in the US.
Assay
The test that determines how much precious metal an item actually contains.
Resizing Tolerance
How far a ring can be resized before the design is compromised.

Worth It?

Cost Per Wear
Purchase price divided by the number of times a piece is actually worn.