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The Pennyweight

brand profile · Fine Jewelry

BEN (The Ben Shoppe): $750 in silver, $4,400 in gold, the same Vault

The Ace Vault is $750–$1,345 in sterling and $4,400–$6,000 in 14k — a 4.5× to 5.9× step for the same openable locket. What BEN discloses about its metal, and the three things it does not.

Imogen HartJewelry & Materials Desk

Published Sep 5, 2026 · 6 min read

A brass balance weighing sterling silver grain against gold grain of equal volume.

The Ace Vault is BEN's launch flagship. In sterling silver it is $750 to $1,345. In 14k gold it is $4,400 to $6,000. Same design, same hinge, same hidden interior — a step of between 4.5 and 5.9 times, depending which end of each range you take.

That comparison is the most useful thing in this catalogue, because it is rare for a fine-jewelry brand to offer the identical object in two metals and let a shopper read the difference straight off the price tag.

What they actually sell

Charlotte Macaulay founded BEN in California in 2023. WWD's launch exclusive dated the opening to 15 August 2023 and confirmed the founder, the Big Ben naming and the 18th-century English pocket-watch inspiration.

The hero category is the Vaults: openable lockets with hidden messages and details inside, each tied to an emotion or a life milestone — The Ace, The Karma, The Penny, The Show, The Ones, The Endeavor, The Bounds, The Universe, The Curiouser, The Token, The Carousel, The Unconditional. Around them sit Chapter Chains, the hand-painted enamel Reason Rope cord, standalone charms and huggie earrings. Forty-five unique SKUs were live when the catalogue was audited.

Who makes it, and where

Not disclosed. There is no country of manufacture on the about page, on product pages, on the product-care page, or in any policy document. The only sourcing statement anywhere on the site is in the copy for the silver chains: "Our sterling silver Italian sourced chains."

That absence is worth naming plainly, because the material claim beside it is specific. 14k recycled gold is the core claim, it is repeated in current product copy, and WWD reported it at launch — "crafted with 14-karat recycled gold". The product-care page publishes accurate metallurgy: 14k is 58.3% pure gold alloyed with copper, silver and zinc, and sterling is 92.5% pure silver. Also in use are hand-painted enamel beads and inlays and named natural ornamental stones — lapis, orange agate, white jasper.

What is never disclosed is the diamonds. Product copy refers to inset diamonds without saying whether they are natural or lab-grown, and no carat weights, grades, grading laboratory or stone treatments are published anywhere. This site labels every stone as a rule. Here it cannot, because the brand does not.

What it costs

PiecePrice
THE KERFUFFLE — sterling silver necklace$250
THE PAPERCLIP — sterling silver chain necklace$295
THE CHAPTER CHAIN — 14k gold, front-clasp$1,100
THE GODDESS — 14k gold necklace$1,450
THE YOU EARRINGS — 14k gold$1,800
THE KARMA VAULT — 14k recycled gold, top of catalogue$4,950–$6,550 depending on chain

The catalogue spans $200 to $6,550. Sterling entry is $200–$350, 14k chains and charms run roughly $595–$1,800, and the Vaults run roughly $1,600–$6,550. The median per-product entry price is about $1,250.

Prices have moved, and two outside records make the drift checkable rather than anecdotal. WWD quoted the founder in 2023 aiming to keep "90 percent of offerings under $5,000"; the Karma Vault now tops out at $6,550. NYLON's 2024 gift guide listed the Universe Vault with curb chain at $2,100; it now lists at $2,900–$4,550.

Signature pieces

The Vaults, first. The Ace Vault is the one to price against itself: $4,400–$6,000 in 14k, $750–$1,345 in sterling. The Chapter Chain, at $1,100–$1,200, is designed to clasp at the front so it can be fastened one-handed, which is a functional decision rather than a styling one. The Goddess necklace at $1,450 is the piece Vogue's jewelry team pulled out in its favourite-brands feature. Charms run $595 in sterling and $1,220 in 14k. The Reason Rope, an enamel bead cord where each colour is assigned a "reason", starts at $350 as a bracelet.

The terms

Fourteen calendar days from delivery. Not business days. On a gift the clock runs while the box sits unopened, which is a real problem in December on a catalogue whose top piece is $6,550. The mechanic itself is sensible — returns are initiated in your account and the brand emails a label — but shipping charges are deducted from the credit, and the item must come back with its original box and pouch. Refunds land on the original payment method in five to seven days. Fourteen days is the modal window across the fifteen brands in our return-window reference.

No final-sale category is published. That is unusual on this board and it counts in the brand's favour: most of the fifteen name at least one class of purchase you cannot send back.

International buyers pay twice. Orders ship DDU, with duties, VAT and import taxes collected by the carrier or by customs, and the brand explicitly warns those can exceed 20% of order value. On a $4,950 Karma Vault that is more than $990 on top, payable at the door.

The hinge. The brand's own care guidance warns that vault hinges wear with frequent opening and closing. That is a candid disclosure about the moving part of its hero product, and it belongs in the buying decision: a locket opened daily is a locket with a service life.

Repairs and sizing. Manufacturing defects are covered free for one year; normal wear and damage from improper care are excluded, with out-of-warranty work charged. Chain and cord lengths are quoted excluding the vault itself, which matters when layering. One thing to route around: the repairs page prints a contact address misspelled with three p's, which would bounce. The working address uses two.

The press record

Six of BEN's seven press citations resolve to the outlet. WWD ran the launch exclusive in 2023 and later named the brand alongside Foundrae and Hart Jewelry in a piece on charm necklaces, quoting Macaulay as an industry source. Vogue profiled the brand in its jewelry team's favourite-brands feature and credited it again in a locket round-up alongside Kinn Studio and Marie Lichtenberg; both of those Vogue pages carry affiliate-revenue disclosures, which is worth knowing about any shopping feature, ours included. Harper's Bazaar recorded Rosé of BLACKPINK wearing a gold heart-shaped locket and pendant necklace from the brand. NYLON's 2024 gift guide is the price-drift source above.

The seventh is a Forbes piece from April 2025 on the pocket-watch inspiration. We have not read the article body, so we record it as the brand's citation rather than as coverage we can vouch for.

Stockists are concrete and checkable: four Clare V. stores in San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York and Seattle, with Amagansett listed for summer 2026; Air Mail in New York; two Valentines in Austin; Ylang 23 in Dallas; Scarpa in Charlottesville; and Front Street Jewelers in Bexley, Ohio. Founded in 2023, the brand has no third-party review history: no Trustpilot profile, no BBB listing, zero Sitejabber reviews.

Comparable brands

Foundrae, Marie Lichtenberg, Kinn Studio and Loquet London on lockets specifically; Mateo and Hart Jewelry on everyday fine gold.

THE PENNYWEIGHT VERDICT

Buy at full price — in sterling.

The number is the multiple: 4.5× to 5.9×, the step from the sterling Ace Vault at $750–$1,345 to the 14k version at $4,400–$6,000. A gold-versus-silver step of that size is not unreasonable on its face — 14k is 58.3% gold, sterling is 92.5% silver, and the bullion gap between them is enormous. The problem is that it cannot be checked. BEN publishes no gram weights, does not say where either version is made, and does not say whether the inset diamonds are natural or lab-grown. That is three undisclosed variables on a $4,400 to $6,000 purchase, and the same three on a $750 one — where they cost a fifth as much to be wrong about.

Buy the design in sterling. The mechanism, the hidden interior and the hinge are the same. If the gold version is the point, ask for the gram weight and the diamond origin in writing before ordering, and open the box the day it lands, because the fourteen days are calendar days.

Every figure above is drawn from thebenshoppe.com's own published pages and product feed, together with the named outlets, as recorded in our brand files on 4–5 September 2026. Prices and terms change without notice. The Pennyweight buys nothing and accepts no gifted product.

33 pieces published

2 brands tracked

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