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The Pennyweight

FAQ · Fine Jewelry

Does 14K or 18K actually make a difference?

Yes, on three axes. Purity: 14K is 58.3 per cent gold, 18K is 75 per cent, so 18K carries more metal value per gram and reads warmer in yellow. Durability: the higher alloy content in 14K makes it harder and more scratch-resistant, which is why a lot of everyday jewelry is 14K by design rather than by economy. Price: at the same weight and design, 18K costs meaningfully more, and the gap widens with heavier pieces. Neither is the better choice in the abstract. For a ring worn daily, particularly one with prongs, 14K holds up better. For a piece worn occasionally where colour is the point, 18K is doing what you are paying for. Compare weight in grams as well as karat — a light 18K chain can hold less gold than a heavy 14K one.

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